These are photos of my trips to Africa

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Life in Uganda and Rwanda

I just realized I never published this last group of photos.. better late than never, I guess.

The following photos are what I managed to capture with my little point and shoot.  Pictures of people, mostly children, villages and towns and life in them.  These first photos are in Kampala, Uganda where we began our journey.

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In all of the large cities I have seen in Africa there is always in some state of building, or tearing down buildings, homes in the middle of everything, some fairly well made all the way to mere shacks. 

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Guy selling sugar cane.

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This is a police station… really.

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You name it, people were selling it.

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Bicycles are used for everything besides just personal transportation.  They were used as taxis and to transport loads far too heavy to carry.  They were usually walked under the kind of load they might be carrying.  Bicycles were far more common for moving goods than carts.

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On the road to Kibale Forest National Park.

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We stopped at this market for fruit.  It was all so good!  My favorites were the little bananas and the avocados.

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This thing is gigantic!  I forget what it’s called.

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These teenagers were eager to talk to us.  I really enjoyed having so much access to the people of these two countries.

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More of the cattle with those giant horns!IMG_0138IMG_0141IMG_0148

My new friends bought pencils and paper to give the children whenever we stopped.  As children do in most third world countries, they always ask for money from tourists.  But this unexpected gift from some of those tourists was well received.

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Banana trees!

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Nice little town we stopped in..

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This is a VERY upscale version of the pit toilets that were pretty much the usual except at the camps and lodges we stayed.  In Kenya, I only encountered one of those the day I was out to see the orphan elephants at DSWT.

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The equator!  How cool is this!?!?

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There is so much color in these towns.

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The yellow containers were everywhere.  They carried their water in them.

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Long dirt roads that soon began to climb.

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These are Batwa (pygmies).  They were brought up to the lodge to perform some of their dances.  I had mixed feelings about this.  They waited and waited for us and it was quite cool and damp.  I suppose they are used to that actually.  And I know this is done to raise awareness of their situation, but still I felt somewhat uncomfortable sitting there while they performed.  Nevertheless,  the little guy in the long t shirt stole the show!

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The first gorilla hike… shrouded in mist… and plenty of rain.

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One of the trackers hacking away vines as we approached the gorillas.

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Very wet and very soggy.

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As you can see, I finally took off my glasses.  I could see better without them than I could with all the water and mist they collected.

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This is our group of trackers rangers and porters.  By this time, not even my little camera escaped the water.

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Just to show you how big some things grow in these forests!

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On to Rwanda.  I wish I could have taken pictures at the border crossing…. bad idea.  Besides having to go from building to building, we were entertained by a truck with a HUGE pile of mattresses.  Clearly, they were foam because they were stomping on them and folding them trying to get them back into the truck.

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We stopped at a restaurant on our way.  Great food and awesome masks.  Several of us walked out with a slightly heavier load.  But this contraption in the yard…. I took a picture of it because in one of the towns I saw young men riding them down the streets.  It was amazing to watch.

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Volcanoes National Park

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Every morning before the gorilla treks, everyone gathered here while the different treks were negotiated.  Meanwhile, there was a group of dancers that were there every morning.  All the dances had meaning and they provided explanations for all of them.

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Obviously, they were quite athletic.

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This was a large group of people all working together to till this field.

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This hike had us walking a fair distance through fields being prepared for planting and others with potatoes growing.. lots and lots of potatoes.

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You know when you hit the park boundary because it suddenly turns to dense forest… in this case, bamboo.

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The kids loved being in the middle of everything.

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This is the stone wall that indicates the park boundary.  It works fairly well at keeping the correct animals out and in.

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One of the trackers was sure that I’d want a picture of myself with a gorilla.  So I let him.  This is the little guy that was showing off for us while hanging from the vine AND then tried to approach me and touch my camera.

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Leaving after last hike..

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Beautiful climb to the lodge and the cabins, but when I looked at those after our day with the Suva group, that was the LAST thing I wanted to do.

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Everywhere in Rwanda there were people on the roads.  Everywhere.

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Kigali, Rwanda, our last stop as a group.

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This is the entrance to the genocide museum in Kigali.   All over the countryside, there are memorials, reminding people to never forget.  There are gardens everywhere within this memorial that are dedicated to those who died in the genocide.  Inside the museam itself, is room after room describing how the division between the Hutu’s and Tutsi’s began…unfortunately, by those who colonized the country.  The very last room pays homage to all the peoples that have died in genocidal wars over the last century.  When put in that context, the feeling of despair was overwhelming.  Do we ever learn…….?

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What was left of our group had lunch at the hotel where the incidents of the movie "Hotel Rwanda” actually took place (not the filming of the movie).IMG_0469IMG_0471

These motorcycles were the most common form of taxi service in the city.  And I actually rode one!  I’ve ridden plenty of motorcycles in my lifetime, but this was the most nerve wracking of all.  Still it was fun.

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On the way to Akagera National Park.  I’ve realized that as much as I thought I was tired of all the driving, I never would have experienced what these countries really feel like.

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Although you can really see it, this is a well.  People walk with their water jugs to these and pump water.

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Bicycles still providing one of their many services…IMG_0599

This is pretty much bus service in what I think is probably true in most cities in Africa.  I saw them in Johannesburg, Nairobi, Kampala and Kigali.  They were always crammed with people but most weren’t decorated so colorfully.

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Lunch with Stephen, Sula, and the ranger (whose name I have forgotten.. although I promised myself I wouldn’t!) at Akagera.

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Now this really is the end.  And I want to thank Stephen for putting together such a complicated trip (at least it seemed that way to me) and also Sula and Fred who drove us all the way.  They were patient, knowledgeable and quite entertaining.

Akagera National Park

This is a national park where I spent my last two days in Africa.  I added this on to follow the gorilla trip.  It is not well known, and is recovering from the war.  It is a beautiful park.  It’s hard to believe that this small park could hold such different ecosystems.. from dense bush, to savannah, to marsh.  It is surrounded by lakes.  The animals are few and far between though.  And the only predators we saw was hyena poop.  Unmistakable because it’s white.  There was hardly anyone there.  After the busy parks we’d been to this was a change we were unprepared for.  At dinner the first night, there was absolutely no one in the dining room except us!  Later a group showed up but really, it seemed so strange… we thought perhaps we had entered the twilight zone!

This is the area of dense bush… in case you hadn’t noticed…

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vervet monkeys give a whole new meaning to the words ‘blue balls’.. Smile

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Although this is an entirely different place, the boats are built almost exactly the same as the boats in the Channel in Uganda.  I wish I had pictures of the contraptions built to help the men create planks of wood… all by hand.

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So many fish eagles… of course being around so much water helps..

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I have never, ever seen so many baboons in one place.  The baboons on this road represent only a few of the total number that were around.

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Then it gets a bit marshy…

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I cannot get enough of this beautiful bird, lilac breasted roller.

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Martial eagle, the largest!

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spur winged goose

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another goliath heron!

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another thick knee…

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In several places we saw these little butterflies all over slightly muddy spots in the road.  Perhaps they were after some mineral?

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hippos, hippos, hippos!

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It’s such hard work being a hippo…..

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This vegetation floats on top and these jacana just walk around on top of it.

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reed buck, I’m not sure..

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All the animals in this park are skittish.  They are not accustomed to vehicles.  They keep their distance or run away as these cape buffalo are doing.

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And savannah… a little bit of everything.

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The ranger had known there were quite a few giraffe in this area.  But there were men working in the area which made the giraffe move off.  They pointed us in the right direction and we found them easily.

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There were both maasai and reticulated giraffe here.  I think we counted over 20 giraffe hanging out here together.

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The next day we took a boat ride around an island.  What I really wanted to see, because they have been seen in this park, is the shoebill.  But the ranger told us that with the fishermen in the area, they hadn’t been seen for a while.  At any rate, most of the pictures that follow are birds.  Just warning you in case you are tired of birds.  There is, however, buried in this maze of pictures a very young crocodile.  I think you could even say it’s pretty cute.

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night heron (can’t remember which kind….)

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african darter… this is such a cool bird.

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cormorants

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giant kingfisher, I think

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grey heron..

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There it is…. so tiny!

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black stork

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That’s it on Akagera.  Nights and early mornings were interesting, however.  One night we were visited by buffalo wandering through the grounds of the lodge.  And early one morning we were invaded by baboons.  Too bad I couldn’t get pictures.

Volcanoes National Park mountain gorillas (continued)

Here are the rest of the photographs from Rwanda.  I’m disappointed in the quality of so many of the photos, but not much I can do about it now….

Lots of youngsters playing, babies, of course, and lots of laying around.  In one of these groups was a day old baby but it was nearly impossible to photograph.  She kept it well stuffed in next to her.

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This little guy was hilarious!  He descended down a vine from high up in a tree.  When he was just above us, he stopped and began to show off.  He swung on the vine, holding on with just one hand and beating his chest with the other.  He used the vine like a swing and just sat there.   He hung upside down.  This went on for five or ten minutes, I really have no idea.  Most of the time, he was facing one of our group who video taped the entire encounter.  When he figures out how to upload it, I’ll be sure to provide the link.  It will make you giggle.  He is about six months old.  At one point, he started walking directly toward me with one arm out, probably to try to get my camera.  I had squatted down to try to get on his level for a photograph.  Of course, the ranger immediately told us to back up.  It’s hard to do when you’re squatting but I managed to stand up and move back a bit.  At that point, he stopped and moved off.  I can’t tell you how much effort I had to put into not reaching out my hand towards his.  

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And that’s the end of the gorillas. 

Next is the couple of days I spent in Akagera National Park in Rwanda.  My last stop before I returned home.

And….. I haven’t downloaded pictures for my little point and shoot.  If any of those turned out okay, I’ll add them soon.  They are mostly people and what I could capture of daily life in these two countries.

Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

The final two gorilla treks were here in this National Park.  These we did two days in a row.  The first of those was to track the Suva group, one of the largest and definitely the furthest up in the mountains.  Apparently, they had done us a favor and moved quite a ways down the mountain.  You could have fooled me.  It seemed like we walked forever… in the rain, of course.  I’m glad I spent several months climbing stairs to develop some stamina.  Fortunately, I never did have sore muscles, but slightly thinner air made this first hike a real grind, for some of us that is.  We started at about 8,000 feet and ended just under 10,000 feet, according one one climber’s altimeter.  This altitude was quite a different experience for me.  As we hiked, I sometimes felt like I couldn’t get enough air.  But as soon as we would stop to rest, I was immediately fine.  But it was work!  And some of my ‘friends’ did point out that I was the oldest female on this hike.   Gee, so helpful!

Since these two hikes followed one another all the photos include both the ‘S’ group and the ‘K’ group.  I wrote down the name of the K group but I can’t find it.  Anyway, it starts with the Suva group and somewhere morphs into the K group.  I just don’t know where.

This is one of three silverbacks that live peacefully together.  I’m not sure I have the groups straight so if I’m wrong, I’d appreciate it if someone from my group of travelers would correct me.   The Suva group arrived here from the Congo and never returned.   So they don’t know exactly how old the oldest dominant silverback is.  But, according the the ranger, when he is too old to lead, he will relinquish his position to number two without any real disruption to the group.  Amazing.

Fortunately, on the Suva hike, the rain stopped just before we reached the gorillas.  And the second hike managed to take place without any rain at all!

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This mom has twins!  You see a head pop up on each side of her.  They are not the same baby.  They are healthy and doing well.  It is unusual for gorillas to have twins so everyone is happy that they have both survived.

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Most of the photographs that follow are of youngsters and babies.  They are hard to resist.

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Hard to tell where this little one begins and ends!DPP_0503DPP_0504DPP_0506DPP_0507DPP_0508DPP_0505DPP_0509

These silly little things were circling each other but with their backs to each other.  They went round and round…. turning every once in a while to be sure they each knew where the other was.  Taking pictures was difficult because everyone was laughing.  And you have to be quiet…. it’s hard to be quiet and laugh at the same time.

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Being a gorilla is such hard work.  It’s time for another nap.

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a few more of the twins…

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I brought a wide angle lens just so I could catch any possible group photos.  But did I remember to take it out of my pack before we walked the last 100 yards?  Of course not.

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It’s hard to groom another with two little ones blocking your view. Smile

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I’m going to post this since there are so many.  I’ll be finishing up the gorillas soon, I hope.

On the way to Rwanda

We crossed the equator on the way to Rwanda.  We stopped for a few photos but they must be on my little camera which I haven’t downloaded yet.

These photos are the crowned crane which happen to be the the national bird of Uganda.  This was the only time we saw them.  I think I probably saw more of them in Kenya last year.  I love not only their ‘crown’ but the way their feathers lay on their body.

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The boundary between the park and land used by the people is startlingly obvious!

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from our lodge in Rwanda..DPP_0481

That’s it.. next are the two gorilla treks in Rwanda.  But it will have to wait a couple of days. 

There’s one thing I want you to know about that isn’t in any photographs.  Because of the creation of the park, people had to leave the forests which were home to many people, particularly the Batwa.. what we used to call Pygmy.  I absolutely agree that some of these forests had to be set aside to preserve what was left of the mountain gorilla population who otherwise would have faced extinction.  But one of the unfortunate consequences of this was what has happened to the Batwa.  They are vilified by many of the other tribes of the countries that share these forests.  They are often treated as second class citizens and face terrible discrimination.  There are people and organizations that are attempting to help them improve their status and success in the communities they find themselves in.  Nevertheless, it is a sad situation and reminds me of what Native Americans have experienced here in the United States.  Actually, I know there are similar situations all over the world. I just wonder if we’ll ever learn……

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park: Uganda…… and GORILLAS!

Finally, we arrived here for the first of three mountain gorilla treks.  I took no pictures until we arrived at the place where the gorillas had been tracked.  All I can say about the hike is I’ve never ever deliberately stood in that much rain in my life.  I wouldn’t even call it rain.  And as you’ll see from the pictures, some of the gorillas didn’t enjoy all that water even though they probably deal with it on a regular basis.  I’m grateful they didn’t retreat to the trees which were close by.  I don’t know if it will show up here, but in some of the pictures, you can see faint lines on the photos which is the rain.  And believe me, this place lives up to its name, impenetrable!   I have never felt so clumsy…. slipping and sliding all the way, squeezing through dense vegetation on narrow trails… if there were trails….  When we reached the area where the gorillas were, we left our stuff (except for cameras, of course) and walked another 100 meters or so.  We must have been walking on vines that were probably at least a meter deep.  I realized when I downloaded the photos, that I have a lot to learn about photographing dark objects surrounded by green.

This is one of the gorillas who was not happy about the rain.  Others seemed to ignore it altogether.  I empathize with this one.

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This mom has a six day old baby.  After we stopped, surrounded by gorillas, the ranger began to talk about this group.  After a few minutes, she came down very close to us, sat in front of the ranger and seemed to be showing him her new baby.  It was incredible!

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same gorilla, still waiting for the rain to stop..

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Hard to see here, but this silverback is playing with a baby.  I was amazed to see how often the silverbacks would take a baby from its mom, hold it, groom it and play with it.  Very sweet.DPP_0435DPP_0437DPP_0439

nose picking is popular….DPP_0441DPP_0442

here’s mom and babe…..

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You can see the streaks of rain on the next few photos below.   I’m surprised any of them are in focus.  Between the difficulties of the dark object on the background of green, the rain and the lens fogging up, it was a challenge.

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still sitting in the same place…..

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looks ferocious, does he?DPP_0466DPP_0467DPP_0468DPP_0469

This is the end of the first mountain gorilla trek, and we slipped and slid back down the mountain.

Queen Elizabeth.. the rest

After the river trip, we spent more time on land, looking in particular for the tree climbing lions.  In a tree, but not a lion… just a vervet monkey.  But that looks soooo uncomfortable!DPP_0298DPP_0297

Lions!  But not in a tree, obviously.  This is a lioness and an older cub, doing what lions do best.

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More life on the savannah…

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The dark spot on this female waterbuck is a gland.  It produces a substance that apparently makes them unappealing to predators.  Not that it stops them from being hunted, but it supposedly does help protect them.

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Those brown bumps were a bunch of mongoose running back and forth.  The kob did seem to find some entertainment value in watching them.

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As we were driving through this large park, we came upon this lake.  It seemed to be divided into sections and people were down there doing something in that water.  Turns out the people in this village are ‘mining’ salt.  There are so many lakes in this area, formed in the craters and between the volcanic mountains that surround this area.  Some of them are quite salty.  Visiting them to find out more was allowed.  When they are not gathering the salt, they are fishing… on the other side of the hills.

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But we ran into elephants on the way down.  Just can’t ignore them..

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Fascinating… although apparently long term exposure causes some serious health problems.

OMG…. here they are.  But, that’s as close as we got which wasn’t close at all.  And these were taken with my big lens.  Poor quality, but it was what I got.  Apparently, over the previous few days, no one was fortunate enough to have seen them.  I guess we were lucky, then.

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more topi.. I love these guys..

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obviously after a meal.. but missed.

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Leaving Queen Elizabeth National Park, we are headed for Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and our first gorilla trek.  Believe me, it lives up to its name.

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Across the river is the Congo.

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Thanks for putting up with all the photos prior to the first gorilla trek.  I love seeing all the animals in such a variety of ecosystems.  Next comes the first gorilla trek!

Kazinga Channel: Uganda

The numbers of animals sharing the shore was amazing.  Birds, buffalo, hippo and an occasional croc all seemed to share the space in relative peace.  Somehow, I imagine that if the elephants decided to visit the Channel, things wouldn’t remain as peaceful.

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spoonbills…

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jacana

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grey heron, yellow billed stork and egyptian geese

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buffalo and hippo??  I never would have believed it…..

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woodland kingfisher

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hadada ibis

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pied kingfisher

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malachite kingfisher.. they are so little and so pretty

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great egret

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fish eagle… I saw more of these birds on this trip than I have on any of my other trips combined.

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Look!  this one has lunch!  Not the sharpest photo but I liked seeing the catch.

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goliath heron.. the biggest.  I saw only one last year and that was from quite a distance.

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monitor lizard… about four feet

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The little guy along for the ride is an oxpecker.  They are almost always along for the ride.

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little egret…these guys are often seen hopping/flying around elephants and other large beasts as they stir up the insects while strolling along.

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cormorants

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maribou storks

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sacred ibis… lousy picture but I don’t think I got many of this bird

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fishing village

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Okay… this may get a little boring for some of you, but I really, really, really like pelicans.  And I can’t stop myself from trying to catch birds in flight.  I’m a little disappointed by the loss of quality in the photos when posted on the blog.  Oh well, you get the idea….

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Elephants doing one of their favorite things…bathing in mud.

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see ya.. back to land

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Queen Elizabeth National Park: Uganda

This park has beautiful, wide landscapes as it is mostly savannah.  However, it is surrounded by lakes. 

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Ugandan kob,,

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waterbuck..

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elephant….

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lots and lots of birds….

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cape buffalo…..

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Following are just more pictures……

I love this bird!  It’s called a thick-knee, although I don’t remember which one.

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Sometimes you just gotta take a short break.

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I can never resist those baby elephants!

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This is the area that Sula, one of our drivers, grew up.  He took some of us on a short walk where he used to live.  These Maribou storks, scavengers you will probably guess, seem to spend most of their time standing around.  They are either the laziest or most patient birds I have ever seen.

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Okay, this is something I never would have believed.  When you see warthogs on the savannahs, they are rather skittish and it’s hard to get decent photos.  Usually, they turn, tail high, and trot off to a safer distance.  It will become obvious why this warthog was so ‘available’ for photos.

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These mongoose were hanging around the kitchen at the lodge, waiting for handouts.  My apologies for so many photos being slightly out of focus.  Somehow the manual focusing ring on my big lens quit working.  So even though the lens told me it was focused, and I can’t rely on my eyes (even with glasses), I just had to hope the lens knew what it was doing.

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There were more resting under this bush.  This warthog decided the mongoose had to share the shade.  Apparently, there was quite a turmoil going on under the bush, until everyone was comfortably settled.

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Next, comes the river trip on the Kazinga Channel.  The huge numbers of birds were awesome, really.

Uganda: Kibale Forest National Park

The purpose of this trip was three gorilla treks.  I have never worked so hard on a vacation, nor have I ever willingly allowed myself to get so wet from rain… if you could even call it rain.  Believe it or not, this was supposed to be the ‘dry’ season.  But in those mountains, you never know.  They have their own micro climate.  I’m going to do this in the order of the places we visited.  Gorilla treks didn’t occur until nearly a week into the trip so you’ll just have to wait.

These next pictures were taken on our way to our first destination in Uganda.

I wrote down eight species of monkeys that we saw.  I could take the time to identify each species that I post, but I’m afraid it will take longer than I am willing to do at this point.

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The horns on these cows were impressive.  These aren’t the largest that I saw.  These cattle were everywhere.

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We stopped for lunch on the way and were discovered by these boys and the dog.  Everyone got something to eat.

 

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More monkeys on the way.  This I’m pretty sure are colobus, although which kind escapes me.  Sorry the quality isn’t better, but they were so far away.

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I ‘think’ this is a hooded vulture.  I know most people don’t care for them, but I think they’re cool.  If this is the hooded, it’s a new one to me.

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In my three previous trips, I have never seen so many baboons.  They were everywhere, all the time, both countries.

 

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We passed many tea plantations…. and sooo many banana plantations.

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As you can see, we gained considerable altitude for our first stop. Here we visited the Kibale Forest National Park where we would walk through the forests in search of chimpanzees. Everything seemed to be within a veil of mist most of the time so landscape shots were never clear.

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This is the forest we looked for chimpanzees.  We didn’t find too many chimps but had a great time in the forest anyway.

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The last couple of pictures of this adolescent male doing his best to impress us with his ‘equipment’.  Such impulses do seem to cross species……..

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These are just a few other photos of the forest and the ‘swamp walk’ we took one afternoon.

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Everywhere in the forests, one of the people, men and women alike, who took us on these walks/treks, carried an AK-47.  I know now what they look like.  The reason for them is to scare off any forest elephants if they happen to come by.  They are too unpredictable and anyone who has been around wild elephants knows how quiet they are when walking.   As much as I want to see one, I guess being face to face with them in the forest wouldn’t be a good idea.  Obviously, they keep their distance.  Humans aren’t exactly quiet.  The closest I came to forest elephants was a pile of elephant dung on our trail on one of the gorilla treks.  I was quite excited to know that they are present in the area.

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I can’t resist taking pictures of the children.  They are ALL cute.  It’s unfortunate that adults do not want to have their pictures taken.  I  definitely get it but their dress and their villages are so colorful and full of life it is difficult to resist the temptation.

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Papyrus…

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Next stop, Queen Elizabeth National Park.

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